The dovetail joint is the classic sign of quality woodworking. Its interlocking, flared pins and tails resist being pulled apart, so a well-fit dovetail stays tight for generations, even without mechanical fasteners.
In this guide we cover the main types of dovetail joints, where each one is used, and how to cut dovetails with a router using a jig, a router table or a simple sled.
Parts of a Dovetail Joint
- Tails: the flared, fan-shaped pieces, usually cut on the drawer sides or case sides.
- Pins: the narrower pieces that fit between the tails, usually on the drawer front or back.
- Baseline: the line scribed at the depth of the joint, equal to the thickness of the mating board.
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Dovetail angle: the slope of the tails, commonly between about 7° and 14°.
Router bits are sold by angle, so the bit you choose sets the angle of the joint.
Types of Dovetail Joints
| Joint | What it looks like | Common uses |
|---|---|---|
| Through dovetail | Pins and tails are visible on both faces of the corner | Boxes, chests, carcases and furniture where the joint is a design feature |
| Half-blind dovetail | Visible on one face only; the pins stop short of the front | Drawer fronts, where a clean face is wanted |
| Sliding dovetail | A single dovetail-shaped tongue slides into a matching groove | Shelves into case sides, table aprons, breadboard ends, legs into pedestals |
| Dovetail spline (key) | Dovetail-shaped keys inserted across a mitered corner | Decorative boxes, frames and mitered cases |
| Full-blind (secret) dovetail | Completely hidden inside a mitered corner | Fine casework where strength is needed without visible joinery |
Choosing a Dovetail Router Bit
A dovetail router bit is defined by its angle, its largest cutting diameter and its cutting height.
Match the bit to your jig's instructions. Jigs are designed around specific bit angles and sizes, and the wrong bit will produce a joint that doesn't fit. For general use, our dovetail router bits come in 1/4", 8mm and 1/2" shanks.
A 1/2" shank is the better choice for sliding dovetails and larger cuts, because the bit removes a lot of material in one pass.
How to Cut Dovetails with a Router
Method 1: A Dovetail Jig
A dovetail jig holds both boards and guides the router with a template and a guide bushing or bearing. Fixed-spacing jigs are quick to set up for half-blind drawer joints.
Adjustable jigs like the Leigh D4R Pro let you set the spacing of every pin and tail and cut through, half-blind and sliding dovetails in a range of board thicknesses.
Pair it with a matched bit set such as our 16-piece bit set for the Leigh D4R Pro.
- Mill all parts to exact, consistent thickness and square ends.
- Mark the inside faces and mating edges so every board goes into the jig the same way.
- Install the guide bushing and bit specified by the jig, and set the bit depth.
- Make a test joint in scrap of the same thickness and adjust before cutting your project parts.
- Rout the tails, then the pins (or both at once on half-blind jigs), moving left to right and keeping the router flat on the template.
Method 2: On the Router Table
The Leigh Router Table Dovetail Jig lets you cut through dovetails and box joints on the router table instead of with a handheld router.
The workpiece moves over the bit, so you can see the cut clearly and keep full control.
Method 3: Sliding Dovetails
- Rout the groove (socket) first. Remove most of the waste with a straight bit slightly narrower than the dovetail's smallest width, then make a single full-depth pass with the dovetail bit.
- Without changing the bit height, cut the tongue on the router table by passing the board on edge against the fence, once on each face.
- Sneak up on the fit by moving the fence in tiny increments.
The tongue should slide in with firm hand pressure.
Method 4: Dovetail Splines for Mitered Boxes
Dovetail splines add strength and a contrasting accent to mitered corners. Our Tapered Dovetail Spline System uses a router jig to cut the slots and a sled to make matching tapered keys.
See it in action in Create Decorative, Strong Boxes.
Tips for Tight Dovetails
- Never lift a dovetail bit out of the cut. Because the bit is wider at the bottom, it must enter and exit through the end of the board.
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Adjust fit with bit depth on half-blind jigs. On most half-blind jigs, lowering the bit makes the joint tighter and raising it makes the joint looser.
Change it in very small steps.
- Back up the cut. A backer board behind the tail board prevents blowout as the bit exits.
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Clean up with a chisel. Pare away any fuzz in the corners.
Skew chisels help in tight spots, as shown in this Narex skew chisel tip.
- Dry fit before glue. Glue swells the fibers, so a joint that is snug when dry may not close once glued.
Dovetail Joint FAQ
What is the strongest type of dovetail joint?
Through dovetails and half-blind dovetails are both very strong in the direction they are designed to resist.
Through dovetails offer the most glue surface, while half-blind dovetails are ideal when the joint must stay hidden on one face.
What angle should a dovetail be?
Most dovetails fall between about 7° and 14°. Shallower angles are often used for hardwoods and steeper angles for softwoods. With a router jig, use the bit angle the jig is designed for.
Can you cut dovetails with a router without a jig?
Sliding dovetails are easily cut on a router table with just a fence. Through and half-blind dovetails are much easier and more consistent with a jig.
Why don't my router dovetails fit?
The most common causes are boards of inconsistent thickness, the wrong bit or bushing for the jig, and an incorrect bit depth. Make a test joint in scrap and adjust in small steps.
Shop all dovetail joinery jigs and bits, and see more tips in Better Dovetails with Our Simple Trick.
