The best wood for a cutting board is a tight-grained domestic hardwood that is hard enough to stand up to a knife but not so hard that it dulls the edge.
Hard maple, black walnut and cherry are the classic choices. In this guide we cover which woods to use and avoid, edge grain vs. end grain, and how to finish a cutting board so it stays food safe for years.
What Makes a Good Cutting Board Wood?
- Closed (tight) grain. Small pores absorb less liquid and give bacteria fewer places to hide. Open-pored woods like red oak wick moisture deep into the board.
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The right hardness. Look for woods roughly between 900 and 1,500 on the Janka hardness scale.
Softer woods scar quickly; much harder woods are tough on knife edges.
- Food safety. Stick to woods with a long history of kitchen use. Many exotic species are skin and respiratory irritants.
- Stability. Well-dried, straight-grained stock is less likely to warp or crack as the board goes through cycles of washing and drying.
Best Woods for Cutting Boards
| Wood | Janka hardness (approx.) | Why use it |
|---|---|---|
| Hard maple | 1,450 | The industry standard. Tight grain, very durable and light in color. |
| Black walnut | 1,010 | Gentle on knives, rich dark color, and a favorite for contrast strips. |
| Cherry | 950 | Fine grain and a warm color that darkens beautifully with age. |
| Beech | 1,300 | Tight grain and hard-wearing, and usually more affordable than maple. |
| White oak | 1,350 | Its pores are plugged, unlike red oak, so it can work, though the bold grain is less refined. |
Woods to Avoid
- Red oak: very open pores that soak up liquid and food residue.
- Softwoods like pine and cedar: too soft, they scar deeply and can taste resinous.
- Toxic or irritating exotics: species like cocobolo and some rosewoods can cause allergic reactions.
- Very hard or silica-rich woods: ipe and similar species dull knives quickly.
- Spalted or punky wood: beautiful, but the fungal decay leaves soft spots that don't belong near food.
Edge Grain vs.
End Grain vs. Face Grain
| Construction | How it's made | Pros | Cons |
|---|---|---|---|
| Face grain | Wide face of the board is the cutting surface | Shows off figure, quickest to make | Shows knife marks fastest, more prone to cupping |
| Edge grain | Strips glued side by side, narrow edges up | Durable, stable, good first project | Shows knife marks over time |
| End grain | Short blocks glued with the end grain facing up | Knife edges slip between fibers, self-healing, easiest on knives | More work to make, needs more oil, heavier |
For a first board, edge grain at about 1" to 1-1/2" thick is the best balance of durability and simplicity.
End-grain butcher blocks are usually made 1-1/2" to 2" thick.
How to Make a Cutting Board
- Mill your stock flat and square. Joint and plane the strips so the glue joints close without clamp pressure.
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Glue up with a waterproof glue. Use a glue rated for indirect food contact and water resistance, such as Titebond III.
Alternate the growth rings and use cauls to keep the panel flat.
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Flatten and cut to shape. For a consistent shape every time, rout the outline with a cutting board template and a pattern router bit.
Templates like our rectangular and round cutting board templates also guide a juice groove.
- Ease the edges. A small roundover bit makes the board more comfortable to handle and less likely to chip.
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Sand. Work through the grits to 180 or 220.
Going much finer can burnish the surface and keep oil from soaking in.
How to Finish a Cutting Board
A cutting board finish should be food safe, easy to renew and penetrate the wood rather than form a film that will be cut through. Avoid cooking oils like olive or vegetable oil, which can turn rancid.
- Raise the grain. Wipe the board with a damp cloth, let it dry, then lightly sand off the raised fibers with your final grit. This keeps the surface from going fuzzy after the first wash.
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Apply a penetrating oil. Flood the board with food-grade mineral oil or a food-safe finishing oil such as Odie's Oil.
Let it soak in, then wipe off the excess. End-grain boards may take several coats.
- Seal with a board butter or wax. A blend of oil and wax, like Odie's Wood Butter, adds a layer of water resistance and a soft sheen.
- Let it cure. Follow the finish maker's cure time before putting the board into service.
Caring for a Wooden Cutting Board
- Hand wash with warm, soapy water and dry it standing on edge.
Never put a wooden board in the dishwasher or leave it soaking.
- Re-oil whenever the board looks dry or pale, typically every few weeks with regular use.
- Remove odors with a rub of coarse salt and lemon, then rinse and dry.
- Light knife marks can be sanded out and the board re-oiled to look like new.
Cutting Board FAQ
What is the most sanitary wood for a cutting board?
Tight-grained hardwoods like hard maple, beech and cherry are the most sanitary choices because their small pores absorb less liquid.
Keeping the board clean, dry and oiled matters as much as the species.
Is walnut or maple better for a cutting board?
Both are excellent. Maple is harder and more durable, while walnut is a bit easier on knife edges and offers a darker color. Many makers combine the two for contrast.
Is end grain better than edge grain?
End grain is easier on knives and hides cut marks better, but it takes more work to build and needs more oil. Edge grain is durable, stable and a great first project.
How thick should a cutting board be?
About 1" to 1-1/2" for an edge-grain board and 1-1/2" to 2" for an end-grain butcher block.
What finish is food safe for a cutting board?
Food-grade mineral oil, a mineral oil and beeswax board butter, or a finish labeled food safe once cured, such as Odie's Oil. Avoid cooking oils that can go rancid and film finishes that will be cut through.
Ready to build your own? Browse our cutting board and serving tray templates, see how they work in Custom Cutting Boards & Serving Trays Made Easy, and finish your board with Odie's Oil food-safe finishes.
