Woodworkers say you can never have too many clamps, but having the right type matters more than having a lot of them. Each style is built for a different job: some are for wide panel glue-ups, some for quick one-handed holding and some for odd shapes and corners.
This guide covers the main types of woodworking clamps, what each one does best and how to build a starter clamp collection.
Woodworking Clamp Types at a Glance
| Clamp | Best for | Clamping force |
|---|---|---|
| F-style bar clamp | General assembly, holding work to the bench | Medium to high |
| Parallel jaw clamp | Panel glue-ups, cabinets and casework | High, with jaws that stay square |
| Pipe clamp | Long, wide glue-ups on a budget | High |
| Trigger (quick-grip) clamp | Fast one-handed holding, jigs and dry fits | Light to medium |
| Spring clamp | Small parts, edge banding, holding templates | Light |
| Handscrew | Odd angles, tapered parts, holding work in a vise | Medium, spread over wide wooden jaws |
| Band clamp | Frames, chairs and multi-sided shapes | Even pressure all the way around |
| Corner clamp | Holding 90° joints for boxes and frames | Light to medium |
| Toggle clamp | Jigs and fixtures that need fast, repeatable hold-downs | Medium |
Bar Clamps (F-Style)
The F-style bar clamp is the workhorse of most shops. A sliding jaw moves along a steel bar and a screw handle applies the pressure. They're fast to set, strong and come in lengths from a few inches to several feet.
The Irwin medium-duty bar clamp is a good all-purpose choice. Browse all bar clamps.
Parallel Jaw Clamps
Parallel clamps have large, flat jaws that stay parallel to each other under pressure. That keeps panels flat and casework square, so they're the first choice for edge-gluing tabletops and assembling cabinets.
Deep jaws spread force over a wide area, and the clamps stand on their own during a glue-up. See the Bessey K Body REVO Jr and the Irwin parallel jaw clamp.
Pipe Clamps
Pipe clamp fixtures mount on ordinary threaded black pipe, so you can make a clamp of any length for a fraction of the cost of a long bar clamp.
They're strong and economical for wide panels and long glue-ups, though the round pipe can let the jaws flex a little. The IRWIN 3/4" pipe clamp fits standard 3/4" pipe.
Trigger Clamps (Quick-Grip)
Trigger clamps tighten by squeezing a handle, so you can position and clamp with one hand while the other holds the work. They're perfect for dry fits, holding jigs and stop blocks, and light glue-ups.
Many convert to spreaders. See the Bessey EZ one-handed clamps, Irwin Quick-Grip mini clamps and all trigger clamps.
Spring Clamps
Spring clamps work like a large clothespin. They're inexpensive, instant and great for holding small parts, edge banding, veneer and templates. Ratcheting styles add more pressure. Shop spring clamps.
Handscrews
A handscrew has two hardwood jaws driven by two threaded spindles. Because each spindle adjusts independently, the jaws can be angled to grip tapered or irregular parts. The wide wooden jaws won't mar your work, and a handscrew clamped in a vise makes an instant holding fixture.
Read The Best Handscrews You'll Ever Own and shop handscrew clamps.
Band Clamps
A band clamp wraps a strap around the whole assembly and tightens it evenly. It's the easiest way to glue up picture frames, chairs, octagons and other shapes that ordinary clamps can't grip. The Bessey variable angle band clamp adjusts to almost any angle.
Corner Clamps
Corner clamps hold two parts at a perfect 90° while you glue, nail or screw them together. They're helpful for boxes, drawers, cabinets and frames. See the Infinity Tools corner clamps 4-pack and the Kreg 90° corner clamp.
Toggle Clamps
Toggle clamps mount to a jig or fixture and lock down with a flip of the handle. They're ideal for sleds, tapering jigs and any setup where you clamp the same way many times. Shop toggle clamps.
Specialty Clamps
Pinch dogs, edge clamps, cam clamps and vacuum clamps solve problems that standard clamps can't. Learn more in Specialty Clamps Every Shop Should Have and Pinch Dog Clamps: Where Other Clamps Can't Reach.
Building a Starter Clamp Collection
- Four to six 12" F-style or trigger clamps for small assemblies, jigs and holding work to the bench.
- Four parallel clamps or pipe clamps, 24" to 36" long, for panel glue-ups and casework.
- A handful of spring clamps for small parts and quick holds.
- Add specialty clamps as projects call for them: a band clamp for frames, corner clamps for boxes and toggle clamps for jigs.
Keep them organized with a wall rack.
See How to Build a Mobile Clamp Rack for Your Shop.
Clamping Tips for Better Glue-Ups
- Dry fit first so you know exactly how many clamps you need and in what order.
- Use just enough pressure to close the joint. Overtightening squeezes out glue and can bow panels.
- Alternate clamps above and below a panel to keep it flat.
- Use cauls or pads to spread pressure and protect the surface.
- Check assemblies for square by measuring the diagonals before the glue sets.
Woodworking Clamp FAQ
What is the most useful clamp for woodworking?
The F-style bar clamp is the most versatile.
For panel glue-ups and casework, parallel jaw clamps are the best upgrade.
What's the difference between a bar clamp and a pipe clamp?
A bar clamp has a fixed steel bar, while a pipe clamp uses fixtures that mount on threaded pipe you buy separately.
Pipe clamps are cheaper for long lengths, and bar clamps are lighter and quicker to adjust.
How many clamps do I need?
Plan on a clamp every 8" to 12" along a panel glue-up. A good starter set is four to six short clamps and four long ones, then add more as your projects grow.
Are trigger clamps strong enough for glue-ups?
They work well for small and light glue-ups. For wide panels and casework, use bar, pipe or parallel clamps, which apply much more pressure.
Shop all woodworking clamps.
